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Gingerbread showed a little R in the "signal strength bars" when roaming.

Ice cream sandwich does not notify me when my phone is roaming (it just shows number of bars, but no R). I want the phone to notify me when I'm roaming.

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On which Phone are you using ICS?
I'am using ICS on an Galaxy S GT-I9000 (Teamhacksung Rom) and it showed me the R in the Signal Strength Bars.

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Are you possibly using "domestic" roaming, i.e. using another network in the same country as your home provider? Android changed the behavior of the roaming indicator somewhat, so that it doesn't count domestic roaming as real roaming anymore.

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